Post by tyman55xr on Jul 7, 2011 21:28:06 GMT -5
Stock Rules & Youth Full Size Rules
Any passenger car or station wagon, which has a wheel base of 100" or longer, may be entered with the following exceptions. No hearses, limousines, four-wheel drive vehicles, Chrysler Imperials, or any car using an Imperial sub-frame.
All glass, plastic, chrome, lights, carpet, interior, and other fragile or flammable items must be removed before arriving at the track. All vehicle interiors and trunks must be swept clean. All rear seats and decking must be completely removed on station wagons. All trailer hitches and bracing must be removed.
Cars must have working seat belts safely secured to the car body or frame. Stock is OK. Seatbelts must be worn at all times.
All cars must have working brakes.
Driver's door must be painted white. Both front doors must have a number in contrasting color to that body panel approximately 24" in size. Same number must be painted on the roof in contrasting colors. Number shall be the drivers' choice. No profane or inappropriate words, numbers, drawings, etc. will be allowed. No signs, flags, or any other decoration may be attached to the exterior of the car.
Battery must be moved to the front passenger floorboard. It must be properly secured, then covered with a non-metallic material (floor mat, etc). Battery box is mandatory. Only one battery is allowed and it must be an automobile type battery.
Original gas tanks must be removed. Fuel cells must be placed behind the drivers' seat or in center of back seat area. You may use a boat tank or other well-made fuel cell, which holds no more then six gallons of gas. It must be properly secured and covered with a metal flash guard positioned to protect the driver. NO GAS TANK PROTECTORS OR REINFORCED TANKS ARE ALLOWED. There must be at least 6" of clearance between the gas tank and the rear firewall. Fuel line must be relocated from stock position, and must be run entirely within the driver's compartment. The fuel line must be secured properly, and have leak proof fittings.
You may run an electric fuel pump, but it must have an On/Off switch clearly labeled. This switch must be located by your battery box and must be easily reachable from outside the car.
Radiators may be removed, but not relocated. No reserve tanks. No alteration may be made to the cooling system (i.e. no auxiliary water pump or radiator).
Transmission coolers are legal. They must be securely mounted in a protected position, with secure fittings. No part of the cooler or lines may be higher then 30" above the floorboard.
Tires must be DOT approved with a visible DOT stamp. Tire size shall be Min. 14", and Max. 16". No paddle or tractor treads. No solid or filled tires. Doubled tires are O.K. Valve stem protectors are O.K. but must be approved by the officials.
At least one, and no more then two vertical safety bars must be installed in the windshield opening. Chain or #9 wire is acceptable. These must be securely fastened to the firewall and roofline. You may run a strong wire mesh screen over any part of the windshield opening, so long as a six-inch gap is left between the edge of the screen and the top ½ of the driver's doorpost to allow placement of the heat stick.
Headers can be run thru hood, but must be pointed up, and no taller than 24"
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance only. You are allowed 4 bolts per wheel well to fasten sheet metal to sheet metal only. These bolts may not be any bigger than 3/8, and the washer may be no bigger than ¼" thick and 1" in diameter.
All suspension parts, front and back, must be stock. If it doesn't bounce you don't run. No "leafing" of coil sprung cars; no truck coil springs may be used. On stock leaf sprung cars, leaf packs must have factory number of leafs per that style of car, and must have factory stagger and thickness. No more than six clamps per leaf pack. Clamps can be home made but must be similar to stock. Leaf packs must attach at factory location using factory hangers for that type of car (I.E. no converting Ford S hangers to GM style). On factory coil sprung cars, all components must be kept stock for that make of car. This includes control arms. THERE WILL BE NO ALTERING OR STENGTHENING CONTROL ARMS IN ANY WAY, THIS INCLUDES LENGTHENING or SHORTENING. No Chain on Suspension.
You may use any factory car bumper. Bumpers may be welded to the shocks, bumper shocks may be welded solid, and shock brackets may be welded to frame. Attachment of bumper, shocks, or brackets may not be done in such a way to reinforce the frame. No home made shocks or brackets, no welding the inner and outer skins together, no loading of bumpers in any way. Whether welded or not, the bumper MUST be chained or wired to the car in two spots. These attachments may not be in front of the radiator, and may not act as reinforcement. The Max bumper height is 24" from bottom of bumper to the ground. Min. height is 16" to ground.
OPEN HOOD INSPECTION AT TECH. Hood must be wired, chained, or bolted shut within six inches of each of the four corners using no bigger than 3/4" bolts, one wrap of 3/8" chain, or up to six strands of #9 wire. You may also wire hood shut at the center of the hood (halfway between the core support and firewall). The front two attachments may extend thru the frame with up to 3/4" all thread in place of the body mounts. The rear attachments may only attach sheet metal to sheet metal, and may not extend to the frame or floor. Center tie downs may only go from sheet metal to sheet metal, using only wire or chain as specified above. Hood must have 12" hole for fire safety. No chain or wires shall be located in front of the radiator. If the fan becomes exposed during the event, the car will be disqualified.
Trunk lid must have a minimum 12" inspection hole. Deck lids and tailgates on wagons may NOT be welded or bolted shut. They must be wired or chained shut in 6 places, using no more than six strands of #9 wire or one pass of 3/8" chain. You can weld one washer to the body where the strands of #9 wire pass thru. This washer may not be anymore than ¼" in thickness and 2" in diameter. Deck lids and tailgates may be removed. Tucking deck lids is O.K., but at least half of the deck lid must still be in the stock location.
Doors must be welded, wired, or chained shut. If welding the doors shut, you may weld them solid using strapping no bigger than 3/8" thick and 3" wide. If using wire you must use min. six strands of #9 wire in at least two attachment points on each door. The tops of the doors may be folded over to the inside, but the door tops may not be welded. Officials must be able to see the interiors of the doors.
Body panels may be creased. Creases must not be welded, bolted, or attached together in any other manor. You may "sedan" a wagon, but the roof may not be tied down or attached to any part of the floor or body in any way. Rear quarters and speaker trays must be close to stock location. NO WEDGE CARS, PERIOD!
No patching of sheet metal except for floor pans (passenger area, trunk floors and rear pans can be patched). These floors may be patched with stock thickness sheet metal in a stock manner. Repairs are okay, but reinforcement is illegal.
No wire inside the cabin of the car (i.e. wire cannot be run from the roof to the frame). The only exception to this rule is that you may use wire to go thru the seat back and run it to the roof solely for purposes of holding the seat back in place. Or id a body mount has rusted out. You may run 9wire in place of the missing bolt (3 wires only). No more than 3 mounts may be fixed.
Any use of Wire, chain or similar fastening material shall not be excessive.
Body mounts must remain stock, with the exception of the back two body mounts in the trunk, and the front two body mounts that go thru the core support. The back bolts may be no larger than 3/4" in diameter and must be placed in the car the same way they came out (Do not extend bolts through the bottom of the frame). The front two body mounts at the core support may be replaced with 3/4" all thread, and may be run up thru the hood. These four body mounts must have a spacer at least 1" and no more the 3" tall. These spacers can be any material, but a metal spacer cannot be welded. Washers used for these four body mounts ONLY may be no more then ¼ inch thick and 4"x 4".
A four-point cage is strongly encouraged. Cage material can be 3" x 3" Max. Dash bar must be a minimum of 6" behind the center of firewall and rear bar may be no more than 6" behind the driver's seat. These bars along with your sidebars must be at least 6" above the floor pan. You may have this as a floating cage connected to the body, or you may connect it to the floor pan with 4 down bars. If you run the down bars they must be VERTICAL, and cannot tie into the body mounts. You may also run a rollover bar constructed of two down bars and one cross bar. The down bars must be VERTICAL, and cannot be located more than 6" behind the driver's seat. These down bars may be welded to the topside of the frame only. If you tie the roll over bar into you cage these bars will count as your cage’s rear down bars, the front bars must still go to sheet metal only. The cross bar must be horizontal and may either be on the inside or outside of the roof. The cage must be built for safety and not for reinforcement. If cage welds are not deemed safe, car will not run until welds are fixed.
A driver's door protective plate is required unless you have welded the driver's door shut AND you have also installed a 4-point cage. Even if you have welded the door and installed a cage, the doorplate is still encouraged. The driver's door protective plate is to be located on the outside of the driver's door only. The doorplate must be a minimum of 6" wide and 1/4" thick, and must extend at least 3 inches but not more than 6 inches past each door seam.
Drive Line: You may run any motor and transmission combo. You may use any factory five-lug car rear end. You may run homemade cross members, but they must be similar to factory. The cross member must mount close to factory location, and may not in any way act as a kicker or reinforcement. Rear ends must mount in factory manner. No altering rear cradle for rear end. Gear ratio must be no different then stock factory ratio (400 gear max). NO REAR END BRACES. Motor mounts may be altered, but must still work in factory manner. ONLY FACTORY MOTOR MOUNTS MAY BE WELED TO THE FRAME. If motor mount is altered, it must be bolted. (I.e. if you enhance the block mount to protect the boss’s, the block mount must both to a factory rubber motor mount). If you alter a motor mount it cannot reinforce the car in any way. You may swap factory mounts between makes (you may use a factory gm motor mount in a ford car and it may be welded). Factory Motor mounts may be chained or welded down, but can only attach straight down to the engine cradle. In such case, the chains or welding must do nothing more then hold the motor down and may not in any way be reinforcement or act as a skid plate. NO DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS. NO MID OR SKID PLATES. NO CRADELS.
Frame: No welding, plating, loading, pinning, capping, boxing C-channel, or altering the frame in anyway except what is specifically authorized in the rules. If any part of the car's frame seams have been welded it will not run. Any "hump plates" will have to be completely removed, No slicing or partial removal will be approved. Frame may be notched, but notch may NOT be pulled back together and re-welded. No re-welding front tabs on 80's and up fords (if you don't understand, ask ahead of derby day). You can re-stub bent frame horns on a pre-run by butt-welding the new section on. You will be allowed up to 4 patches to fix frame damage or rust, these patches must be no bigger then 4" x 6" x ¼" thick. Damage or rust must be visible to the inspector (frames will be scoped with a camera). You may only use one patch per damaged area; patches may not be welded together or connected in any way. You may only use 2 patches to repair rust on the entire frame. No more than 4 patches on any car. Pre-run cars may weld up a crack in the frame, but this counts as a patch.
With the exception of the changes from stock, which are specifically allowed in these rules, THIS IS A STOCK DERBY. No other welding, bolting, wiring, adding foreign material, or doing anything to reinforce or strengthen your car is permitted. There is only 1 interpretation of these rules. If you do not understand any rule, or you think there are multiple interpretations, call before building your car. Blatant cheating will result in disqualification.
Any passenger car or station wagon, which has a wheel base of 100" or longer, may be entered with the following exceptions. No hearses, limousines, four-wheel drive vehicles, Chrysler Imperials, or any car using an Imperial sub-frame.
All glass, plastic, chrome, lights, carpet, interior, and other fragile or flammable items must be removed before arriving at the track. All vehicle interiors and trunks must be swept clean. All rear seats and decking must be completely removed on station wagons. All trailer hitches and bracing must be removed.
Cars must have working seat belts safely secured to the car body or frame. Stock is OK. Seatbelts must be worn at all times.
All cars must have working brakes.
Driver's door must be painted white. Both front doors must have a number in contrasting color to that body panel approximately 24" in size. Same number must be painted on the roof in contrasting colors. Number shall be the drivers' choice. No profane or inappropriate words, numbers, drawings, etc. will be allowed. No signs, flags, or any other decoration may be attached to the exterior of the car.
Battery must be moved to the front passenger floorboard. It must be properly secured, then covered with a non-metallic material (floor mat, etc). Battery box is mandatory. Only one battery is allowed and it must be an automobile type battery.
Original gas tanks must be removed. Fuel cells must be placed behind the drivers' seat or in center of back seat area. You may use a boat tank or other well-made fuel cell, which holds no more then six gallons of gas. It must be properly secured and covered with a metal flash guard positioned to protect the driver. NO GAS TANK PROTECTORS OR REINFORCED TANKS ARE ALLOWED. There must be at least 6" of clearance between the gas tank and the rear firewall. Fuel line must be relocated from stock position, and must be run entirely within the driver's compartment. The fuel line must be secured properly, and have leak proof fittings.
You may run an electric fuel pump, but it must have an On/Off switch clearly labeled. This switch must be located by your battery box and must be easily reachable from outside the car.
Radiators may be removed, but not relocated. No reserve tanks. No alteration may be made to the cooling system (i.e. no auxiliary water pump or radiator).
Transmission coolers are legal. They must be securely mounted in a protected position, with secure fittings. No part of the cooler or lines may be higher then 30" above the floorboard.
Tires must be DOT approved with a visible DOT stamp. Tire size shall be Min. 14", and Max. 16". No paddle or tractor treads. No solid or filled tires. Doubled tires are O.K. Valve stem protectors are O.K. but must be approved by the officials.
At least one, and no more then two vertical safety bars must be installed in the windshield opening. Chain or #9 wire is acceptable. These must be securely fastened to the firewall and roofline. You may run a strong wire mesh screen over any part of the windshield opening, so long as a six-inch gap is left between the edge of the screen and the top ½ of the driver's doorpost to allow placement of the heat stick.
Headers can be run thru hood, but must be pointed up, and no taller than 24"
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance only. You are allowed 4 bolts per wheel well to fasten sheet metal to sheet metal only. These bolts may not be any bigger than 3/8, and the washer may be no bigger than ¼" thick and 1" in diameter.
All suspension parts, front and back, must be stock. If it doesn't bounce you don't run. No "leafing" of coil sprung cars; no truck coil springs may be used. On stock leaf sprung cars, leaf packs must have factory number of leafs per that style of car, and must have factory stagger and thickness. No more than six clamps per leaf pack. Clamps can be home made but must be similar to stock. Leaf packs must attach at factory location using factory hangers for that type of car (I.E. no converting Ford S hangers to GM style). On factory coil sprung cars, all components must be kept stock for that make of car. This includes control arms. THERE WILL BE NO ALTERING OR STENGTHENING CONTROL ARMS IN ANY WAY, THIS INCLUDES LENGTHENING or SHORTENING. No Chain on Suspension.
You may use any factory car bumper. Bumpers may be welded to the shocks, bumper shocks may be welded solid, and shock brackets may be welded to frame. Attachment of bumper, shocks, or brackets may not be done in such a way to reinforce the frame. No home made shocks or brackets, no welding the inner and outer skins together, no loading of bumpers in any way. Whether welded or not, the bumper MUST be chained or wired to the car in two spots. These attachments may not be in front of the radiator, and may not act as reinforcement. The Max bumper height is 24" from bottom of bumper to the ground. Min. height is 16" to ground.
OPEN HOOD INSPECTION AT TECH. Hood must be wired, chained, or bolted shut within six inches of each of the four corners using no bigger than 3/4" bolts, one wrap of 3/8" chain, or up to six strands of #9 wire. You may also wire hood shut at the center of the hood (halfway between the core support and firewall). The front two attachments may extend thru the frame with up to 3/4" all thread in place of the body mounts. The rear attachments may only attach sheet metal to sheet metal, and may not extend to the frame or floor. Center tie downs may only go from sheet metal to sheet metal, using only wire or chain as specified above. Hood must have 12" hole for fire safety. No chain or wires shall be located in front of the radiator. If the fan becomes exposed during the event, the car will be disqualified.
Trunk lid must have a minimum 12" inspection hole. Deck lids and tailgates on wagons may NOT be welded or bolted shut. They must be wired or chained shut in 6 places, using no more than six strands of #9 wire or one pass of 3/8" chain. You can weld one washer to the body where the strands of #9 wire pass thru. This washer may not be anymore than ¼" in thickness and 2" in diameter. Deck lids and tailgates may be removed. Tucking deck lids is O.K., but at least half of the deck lid must still be in the stock location.
Doors must be welded, wired, or chained shut. If welding the doors shut, you may weld them solid using strapping no bigger than 3/8" thick and 3" wide. If using wire you must use min. six strands of #9 wire in at least two attachment points on each door. The tops of the doors may be folded over to the inside, but the door tops may not be welded. Officials must be able to see the interiors of the doors.
Body panels may be creased. Creases must not be welded, bolted, or attached together in any other manor. You may "sedan" a wagon, but the roof may not be tied down or attached to any part of the floor or body in any way. Rear quarters and speaker trays must be close to stock location. NO WEDGE CARS, PERIOD!
No patching of sheet metal except for floor pans (passenger area, trunk floors and rear pans can be patched). These floors may be patched with stock thickness sheet metal in a stock manner. Repairs are okay, but reinforcement is illegal.
No wire inside the cabin of the car (i.e. wire cannot be run from the roof to the frame). The only exception to this rule is that you may use wire to go thru the seat back and run it to the roof solely for purposes of holding the seat back in place. Or id a body mount has rusted out. You may run 9wire in place of the missing bolt (3 wires only). No more than 3 mounts may be fixed.
Any use of Wire, chain or similar fastening material shall not be excessive.
Body mounts must remain stock, with the exception of the back two body mounts in the trunk, and the front two body mounts that go thru the core support. The back bolts may be no larger than 3/4" in diameter and must be placed in the car the same way they came out (Do not extend bolts through the bottom of the frame). The front two body mounts at the core support may be replaced with 3/4" all thread, and may be run up thru the hood. These four body mounts must have a spacer at least 1" and no more the 3" tall. These spacers can be any material, but a metal spacer cannot be welded. Washers used for these four body mounts ONLY may be no more then ¼ inch thick and 4"x 4".
A four-point cage is strongly encouraged. Cage material can be 3" x 3" Max. Dash bar must be a minimum of 6" behind the center of firewall and rear bar may be no more than 6" behind the driver's seat. These bars along with your sidebars must be at least 6" above the floor pan. You may have this as a floating cage connected to the body, or you may connect it to the floor pan with 4 down bars. If you run the down bars they must be VERTICAL, and cannot tie into the body mounts. You may also run a rollover bar constructed of two down bars and one cross bar. The down bars must be VERTICAL, and cannot be located more than 6" behind the driver's seat. These down bars may be welded to the topside of the frame only. If you tie the roll over bar into you cage these bars will count as your cage’s rear down bars, the front bars must still go to sheet metal only. The cross bar must be horizontal and may either be on the inside or outside of the roof. The cage must be built for safety and not for reinforcement. If cage welds are not deemed safe, car will not run until welds are fixed.
A driver's door protective plate is required unless you have welded the driver's door shut AND you have also installed a 4-point cage. Even if you have welded the door and installed a cage, the doorplate is still encouraged. The driver's door protective plate is to be located on the outside of the driver's door only. The doorplate must be a minimum of 6" wide and 1/4" thick, and must extend at least 3 inches but not more than 6 inches past each door seam.
Drive Line: You may run any motor and transmission combo. You may use any factory five-lug car rear end. You may run homemade cross members, but they must be similar to factory. The cross member must mount close to factory location, and may not in any way act as a kicker or reinforcement. Rear ends must mount in factory manner. No altering rear cradle for rear end. Gear ratio must be no different then stock factory ratio (400 gear max). NO REAR END BRACES. Motor mounts may be altered, but must still work in factory manner. ONLY FACTORY MOTOR MOUNTS MAY BE WELED TO THE FRAME. If motor mount is altered, it must be bolted. (I.e. if you enhance the block mount to protect the boss’s, the block mount must both to a factory rubber motor mount). If you alter a motor mount it cannot reinforce the car in any way. You may swap factory mounts between makes (you may use a factory gm motor mount in a ford car and it may be welded). Factory Motor mounts may be chained or welded down, but can only attach straight down to the engine cradle. In such case, the chains or welding must do nothing more then hold the motor down and may not in any way be reinforcement or act as a skid plate. NO DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS. NO MID OR SKID PLATES. NO CRADELS.
Frame: No welding, plating, loading, pinning, capping, boxing C-channel, or altering the frame in anyway except what is specifically authorized in the rules. If any part of the car's frame seams have been welded it will not run. Any "hump plates" will have to be completely removed, No slicing or partial removal will be approved. Frame may be notched, but notch may NOT be pulled back together and re-welded. No re-welding front tabs on 80's and up fords (if you don't understand, ask ahead of derby day). You can re-stub bent frame horns on a pre-run by butt-welding the new section on. You will be allowed up to 4 patches to fix frame damage or rust, these patches must be no bigger then 4" x 6" x ¼" thick. Damage or rust must be visible to the inspector (frames will be scoped with a camera). You may only use one patch per damaged area; patches may not be welded together or connected in any way. You may only use 2 patches to repair rust on the entire frame. No more than 4 patches on any car. Pre-run cars may weld up a crack in the frame, but this counts as a patch.
With the exception of the changes from stock, which are specifically allowed in these rules, THIS IS A STOCK DERBY. No other welding, bolting, wiring, adding foreign material, or doing anything to reinforce or strengthen your car is permitted. There is only 1 interpretation of these rules. If you do not understand any rule, or you think there are multiple interpretations, call before building your car. Blatant cheating will result in disqualification.